 Black glazing compound saves you the messy job of mixing regular putty with lampblack for glazing your finished leaded glass project.
This product is not recommended for cementing your leaded glass project, because it never hardens. (Proper cement eventually hardens, resulting in a stiff, waterproof panel.) |  Back in stock! No stained or leaded glass work is really complete without cementing. It fills in all the spaces between the glass and the lead cames, and make the panel strong and waterproof.
For those of you who don't want the hassle of mixing your own cement, this Inland Cement System saves you the time and the mess. You'll just need to stir it up, because it will separate. We recommend you set the can upside-down overnight, then mix it in the morning. It's easier to mix if you put it into a larger container. If it starts out a bit runny, you can add some whiting to thicken it, much like you'd thicken runny cake batter, only instead of being creamy and sweet, this stuff is most definitely not edible. If it's a little dry (which it could be if you let it sit on the shelf for a few months), you can add turpentine. It works well, and might be exactly the product for you. We've tested it in our Basic Lead Class, and it got rave reviews. 4 lbs. can. $20.85, 6 for $112.62 |
Free! The traditional method of cementing or waterproofing a stained glass window that has been constructed with lead came. (Recently revised to reflect the latest theories about this ancient practice.) If you are a consenting adult, and would like a free copy of our own formula for leaded glass waterproofing cement, add it to your order. If you don't need to order anything, just send us a self-addressed stamped envelope and we will send it to you. |  A fine black powder, about the consistency of talcum, which we mix with other ingredients to make the leaded glass waterproofing cement in our studio. Its original source was the lampshades of the lamps used in the 19th century where it accumulated as the lamp burned. The amount of this carbon deposited on the lampshade was an indicator of the purity of the oil being burned. It was necessary to scrape the lampblack off from time to time, and various uses were found for it. It is now also used to color Portland Cement, when a dark grout is desired. $8.91, 3 for $24.06, 6 for $42.78 |