I now assemble

the glass and lead. I use small nails tacked into the workbench as a fence to hold the pieces of glass and lead in position as I progress across the pattern. Each time I add a piece of glass or lead, I remove a nail and put it back into a new position. I press the lead firmly onto the glass and avoid leaving any "daylight" between the pieces. I use the lead in as long a piece as possible to reduce the number of joints to be soldered. I cut the thin leads used in this project with ordinary household scissors. When I cut heavier leads I use a lead knife. (SEE "HAND TOOLS & APPURTENANCES") I prefer to use a lead knife because I can cut the lead right in position on the bench without lifting it out of place. The cut is much more accurate when I do it this way.

Lead stored for any length of time will oxidize and turn dull. Lead must be bright and shiny to take solder easily. If the lead you are using has oxidized, scrape the lead with the edge of a knife at the spots where you will be applying the solder. When you have finished glazing, you should have every piece of glass and lead in place, held tightly in position with small nails, and ready for soldering.